Met a most excellent human being today—-Mr. Wayne Rich! Got to talk story about his new creation, The Nightmare. Beautiful lines and subtlety that could only come from a master at his craft. Truly an honor to meet such a gentle giant ⚡️
Made myself a 4’11” Superchunk today :: usually when i shape a sub-5’ board the waves start pumping for weeks ✨ (at stringerless)
Japanese beach party scene yesterday for my samurai movie stunt double friend Mamoru Ochiai —- Otanjyobi Omedeto!!!!
@tuesday_coffee @yoko_ochiai (at BeeeCheee)